Carrier Oils Fatty Acids in Depth: About Unsaturated, Polyunsaturated & Saturated Fatty Acids
In this entry we’re going to look at fatty acids in more depth.
1. Unsaturated fatty acids
I’m leaving below Wikipedia’s table of contents list for easy access to the fatty acid molecular species (mono-unsaturated, di-unsaturated, tri-unsaturated, tetra-unsaturated, pentaunsaturated and hexaunsaturated). Just click on the link per each acid and it should take you straight to Wikipedia content. Here’s the link to the page.
- 1 Fatty acid molecular species
1.1 Monounsaturated Fatty Acids
These acids have only one double bond. The fatty acid hydrocarbon chain is not fully saturated with hydrogen atoms so these oils are in liquid form, as opposed to saturated fatty acids which are somewhat solid (think butters: cocoal, shea, mango, etc).
Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid and a constant, very common acid to find in oils. Oils only have one double bond where the oxygen can attach so there is some resistance to oxidation (as opposed to acids with more double bonds). Oxidation will make the oil go rancid.
The most common monounsaturated fatty acids are:
- Oleic acid: Omega-9 unsaturated fatty acid. Naturally found on our skin; in fact, 30% of our skin and sebum are made up of oleic acid. This is the most common fatty acid found it most oils that are liquid. As it doesn’t absorb that quickly it provides a thin layer to the outer skin thus helps prevent moisture loss. Adds suppleness, protects and nourishes; it is also anti-inflammatory, antiviral and antifungal. Good to prevent skin infections caused by fungi or virus. This acid is well suited for dry skin. The almond tree and the olive tree produce oleic acid. This acid is often used as a penetration enhancer. Oils high in oleic acid are: camellia seed oil (80%), olive oil (75%), hazelnut oil (75%), marula oil (75%), sweet almond oil (65%), apricot kernel oil (65%), plum kernel oil (60%).
- Palmitoleic acid: Omega-7 unsaturated fatty acid. Our skin produces palmitoleic acid but as we age the process slows down so oils high in palmitoleic acid are beneficial for products that are garteget at ageing skin. Some examples of oils high in palmitoleic acid are: sea buckthorn berry (25%), macadamia (17%) and avocado (22%). This acid has antibacterial properties so it is good for products aimed at fighting skin infections. Jojoba oil, hazelnut oil and grapeseed oil have trace mounts of this acid. An interesting article here.
Here’s a list:
| ω−n | Common Name | Lipid Numbers | Δn | Structural Formula | Trans or Cis | Naturally Occurring in |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ω−3 | α-Linolenic acid | C18:3 | Δ9,12,15 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | cis | Flaxseeds, chia seeds, walnuts [1] |
| ω−3 | Stearidonic acid | C18:4 | Δ6,9,12,15 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)4COOH | cis | Seed oils of hemp, blackcurrant, corn gromwell[citation needed] |
| ω−3 | Eicosapentaenoic acid | C20:5 | Δ5,8,11,14,17 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)3COOH | cis | cod liver, herring, mackerel, salmon, menhaden and sardine[citation needed] |
| ω−3 | Docosahexaenoic acid | C22:6 | Δ4,7,10,13,16,19 | CH3CH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)2COOH | cis | maternal milk, fish oil.[2] |
| ω−6 | Linoleic acid | C18:2 | Δ9,12 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | cis | Peanut oil,[3] chicken fat,[4] olive oil [5][6] |
| ω−6 | Linolelaidic acid | C18:2 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | trans | partially hydrogenated vegetable oils | |
| ω−6 | γ-Linolenic acid | C18:3 | Δ6,9,12 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)4COOH | cis | borage oil, black currant oil, evening primrose oil [7] and safflower oil [8] |
| ω−6 | Dihomo-γ-linolenic acid | C20:3 | Δ8,11,14 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)6COOH | cis | only in trace amounts in animal products[9][10] |
| ω−6 | Arachidonic acid | C20:4 | Δ5,8,11,14 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)3COOH | cis | |
| ω−6 | Docosatetraenoic acid | C22:4 | Δ7,10,13,16 | CH3(CH2)4CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)5COOH | cis | – |
| ω−7 | Palmitoleic acid | C16:1 | Δ9 | CH3(CH2)5CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | cis | Macadamia nuts[11] |
| ω−7 | Vaccenic acid | C18:1 | Δ11 | CH3(CH2)5CH=CH(CH2)9COOH | trans | dairy products such as milk, butter, and yogurt.[12] |
| ω−7 | Paullinic acid | C20:1 | Δ13 | CH3(CH2)5CH=CH(CH2)11COOH | cis | guarana[13] |
| ω−9 | Oleic acid | C18:1 | Δ9 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | cis | olive oil, pecan oil,[14]canola oil,[15] |
| ω−9 | Elaidic acid | C18:1 | Δ9 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)7COOH | trans | hydrogenated vegetable oil[16] |
| ω−9 | Gondoic acid | C20:1 | Δ11 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)9COOH | cis | jojoba oil[17] (edible but non-caloric and non-digestible) |
| ω−9 | Erucic acid | C22:1 | Δ13 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)11COOH | cis | wallflower seed; mustard oil |
| ω−9 | Nervonic acid | C24:1 | Δ15 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CH(CH2)13COOH | cis | King salmon, flaxseed, sockeye salmon, sesame seed, macadamia nuts[18] |
| ω−9 | Mead acid | C20:3 | Δ5,8,11 | CH3(CH2)7CH=CHCH2CH=CHCH2CH=CH(CH2)3COOH | cis | cartilage |
1.2 Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids
When there is more than one double bond the fatty acid is a polyunsaturated fatty acid (poly > many). Polyunsaturated fatty acids commonly have two or three double bonds but they can have up to five or more double bonds.
Polyunsaturated fatty acids absorb really well into the skin which makes them really good if we want to deliver nutrients to the skin. These fatty acids help repair certain conditions like eczema. Oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acid can go rancid faster than others though.
When bonds are unsaturated they acquire an omega number which is actually determined by the placement of the first double bond from the omega free end of the carbon chain.
The essential fatty acids are omega-3 and omega-6.
Below: omega-3, omega-6, omega-9 polyunsaturated fatty acids
Omega-3
The most common omega-3 acid is Alpha-linolenic acid (LNA or ALA). Oils high on LNA are flax seed oil, chia seed oil, perilla seed oil, kiwi seed oil, sacha inchi seed oil and camelina seed oil.
Oils high in linoleic acid usually have fairly high amounts of alpha-linolenic acid in them as well, but not the other way around necessarily. Linoleic acid and alpha-linolenic acid are the essential fatty acids (EFAs).
| Common name | Lipid name | Chemical name |
|---|---|---|
| Hexadecatrienoic acid (HTA) | 16:3 (n-3) | all-cis 7,10,13-hexadecatrienoic acid |
| Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) | 18:3 (n-3) | all-cis-9,12,15-octadecatrienoic acid |
| Stearidonic acid (SDA) | 18:4 (n-3) | all-cis-6,9,12,15,-octadecatetraenoic acid |
| Eicosatrienoic acid (ETE) | 20:3 (n-3) | all-cis-11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid |
| Eicosatetraenoic acid (ETA) | 20:4 (n-3) | all-cis-8,11,14,17-eicosatetraenoic acid |
| Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA, Timnodonic acid) | 20:5 (n-3) | all-cis-5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentaenoic acid |
| Heneicosapentaenoic acid (HPA) | 21:5 (n-3) | all-cis-6,9,12,15,18-heneicosapentaenoic acid |
| Docosapentaenoic acid (DPA, Clupanodonic acid) | 22:5 (n-3) | all-cis-7,10,13,16,19-docosapentaenoic acid |
| Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA, Cervonic acid) | 22:6 (n-3) | all-cis-4,7,10,13,16,19-docosahexaenoic acid |
| Tetracosapentaenoic acid | 24:5 (n-3) | all-cis-9,12,15,18,21-tetracosapentaenoic acid |
| Tetracosahexaenoic acid (Nisinic acid) | 24:6 (n-3) | all-cis-6,9,12,15,18,21-tetracosahexaenoic acid |
Omega-6
Linolenic acid is an 18 carbon chain with two double bonds (18:2). It is an omega-6 fatty acid. Oils high in linolenic acid are: pumpkin, cucumber, watermelon, black seed, sesame, passion fruit, grape seed.
Linolenic acid is the most common fatty acid from the polyunsaturated group. This fatty acid is found in our skin’s sebum.
Another omega-6 acid is Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). Our bodies convert LA (linoleic acid) into GLA (gamma-linolenic acid) where it acts to reduce inflammation, redness, eczema, psoriasis as well as abnormal cell growth. Oils high in GLA are borage, evening primrose and black currant. These oils are good at tackling inflammation and issues with hot skin. GLA is an 18 carbon fatty acid chain (18:3 n-6) with three double bonds and an omega-6 fatty acid. s
| Common name | Lipid name | Chemical name |
|---|---|---|
| Linoleic acid (LA) | 18:2 (n-6) | all-cis-9,12-octadecadienoic acid |
| Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) | 18:3 (n-6) | all-cis-6,9,12-octadecatrienoic acid |
| Eicosadienoic acid | 20:2 (n-6) | all-cis-11,14-eicosadienoic acid |
| Dihomo-gamma-linolenic acid (DGLA) | 20:3 (n-6) | all-cis-8,11,14-eicosatrienoic acid |
| Arachidonic acid (AA) | 20:4 (n-6) | all-cis-5,8,11,14-eicosatetraenoic acid |
| Docosadienoic acid | 22:2 (n-6) | all-cis-13,16-docosadienoic acid |
| Adrenic acid (AdA) | 22:4 (n-6) | all-cis-7,10,13,16-docosatetraenoic acid |
| Docosapentaenoic acid (Osbond acid) | 22:5 (n-6) | all-cis-4,7,10,13,16-docosapentaenoic acid |
| Tetracosatetraenoic acid | 24:4 (n-6) | all-cis-9,12,15,18-tetracosatetraenoic acid |
| Tetracosapentaenoic acid | 24:5 (n-6) | all-cis-6,9,12,15,18-tetracosapentaenoic acid |
Omega-9
| Common name | Lipid name | Chemical name |
|---|---|---|
| Oleic acid† | 18:1 (n-9) | cis-9-octadecenoic acid |
| Eicosenoic acid† | 20:1 (n-9) | cis-11-eicosenoic acid |
| Mead acid | 20:3 (n-9) | all-cis-5,8,11-eicosatrienoic acid |
| Erucic acid† | 22:1 (n-9) | cis-13-docosenoic acid |
| Nervonic acid† | 24:1 (n-9) | cis-15-tetracosenoic acid |
| †Monounsaturated |
2. Saturated Fatty Acids
Saturated fatty acids have no C=C double bonds.
| Common Name | Systematic Name | Structural Formula | Lipid Numbers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Butyric acid | Butanoic acid | CH3(CH2)2COOH | C4:0 |
| Valeric acid | Pentanoic acid | CH3(CH2)3COOH | C5:0 |
| Caproic acid | Hexanoic acid | CH3(CH2)4COOH | C6:0 |
| Enanthic acid | Heptanoic acid | CH3(CH2)5COOH | C7:0 |
| Caprylic acid | Octanoic acid | CH3(CH2)6COOH | C8:0 |
| Pelargonic acid | Nonanoic acid | CH3(CH2)7COOH | C9:0 |
| Capric acid | Decanoic acid | CH3(CH2)8COOH | C10:0 |
| Undecylic acid | Undecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)9COOH | C11:0 |
| Lauric acid | Dodecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)10COOH | C12:0 |
| Tridecylic acid | Tridecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)11COOH | C13:0 |
| Myristic acid | Tetradecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)12COOH | C14:0 |
| Pentadecylic acid | Pentadecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)13COOH | C15:0 |
| Palmitic acid | Hexadecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)14COOH | C16:0 |
| Margaric acid | Heptadecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)15COOH | C17:0 |
| Stearic acid | Octadecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)16COOH | C18:0 |
| Nonadecylic acid | Nonadecanoic acid | CH3(CH2)17COOH | C19:0 |
| Arachidic acid | Eicosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)18COOH | C20:0 |
| Heneicosylic acid | Heneicosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)19COOH | C21:0 |
| Behenic acid | Docosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)20COOH | C22:0 |
| Tricosylic acid | Tricosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)21COOH | C23:0 |
| Lignoceric acid | Tetracosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)22COOH | C24:0 |
| Pentacosylic acid | Pentacosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)23COOH | C25:0 |
| Cerotic acid | Hexacosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)24COOH | C26:0 |
| Heptacosylic acid | Heptacosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)25COOH | C27:0 |
| Montanic acid | Octacosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)26COOH | C28:0 |
| Nonacosylic acid | Nonacosanoic acid | CH3(CH2)27COOH | C29:0 |
| Melissic acid | Triacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)28COOH | C30:0 |
| Hentriacontylic acid | Hentriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)29COOH | C31:0 |
| Lacceroic acid | Dotriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)30COOH | C32:0 |
| Psyllic acid | Tritriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)31COOH | C33:0 |
| Geddic acid | Tetratriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)32COOH | C34:0 |
| Ceroplastic acid | Pentatriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)33COOH | C35:0 |
| Hexatriacontylic acid | Hexatriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)34COOH | C36:0 |
| Heptatriacontanoic acid | Heptatriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)35COOH | C37:0 |
| Octatriacontanoic acid | Octatriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)36COOH | C38:0 |
| Nonatriacontanoic acid | Nonatriacontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)37COOH | C39:0 |
| Tetracontanoic acid | Tetracontanoic acid | CH3(CH2)38COOH | C40:0 |
Helpful Resources
Wikipedia on Fatty Acid: Types (length, saturated, unsaturated), examples, nomenclature, etc.
Wikipedia on Essential Fatty Acids. Example of the content: “When the two EFAs were discovered in 1923, they were designated “vitamin F”, but in 1929, research on rats showed that the two EFAs are better classified as fats rather than vitamins.”
List of saturated fatty acids
List of unsaturated fatty acids
List of polyunsaturated fatty acids
Oils of Nature: Fantastic pdf book and available for free on oils, fats, waxes and butters, triglycerides, wax esters, drying oils, INCI nomenclature, classification, carbon number, oil preparation and processing, fractionating and surfactants. A must for anyone interested in carrier oils composition.
