Frankincense Oil For Mature Skin: Benefits, Uses And Safety (Glowy Skin)
Frankincense oil has a reputation problem.
Half the internet treats it like a wrinkle eraser in a bottle.
The other half sells it neat, straight onto the face, because it is “natural” (as if that settles anything).
Neither camp has bothered to check what frankincense actually does on skin, or how much of it is safe to put there.
That is what this piece sorts out.
You will get the real evidence, the actual dilution numbers, and the mistakes that turn a beautiful, ancient resin into a rash. No miracle claims. No guesswork. Just frankincense oil, used properly.
I’m Patri Hernández, a certified organic skincare formulator and dermocosmetic technician with a background in health coaching. I specialise in natural skincare, botanical ingredients and essential oils, and this is exactly the kind of ingredient most blogs get wrong, because most bloggers never check the research before they hit publish.
Some links in this post may be affiliate links. If you buy through one, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. That never changes what I recommend. I only mention products I would genuinely stand behind.
What frankincense oil actually is
Frankincense is resin. Full stop.
It comes from Boswellia trees, tapped from cuts in the bark, dried into hardened “tears”, then steam distilled into the oil you buy.
Not all frankincense is equal. “Frankincense” on a label tells you almost nothing on its own, because several different species get sold under that one word.
| Species | Typical origin | Worth knowing |
|---|---|---|
| Boswellia sacra / carterii | Oman, Somalia | The most common species in skincare oils |
| Boswellia serrata | India | Better known for its resin extract than for the essential oil |
| Boswellia frereana | Somalia | Lighter, lemony scent, usually pricier |
| Boswellia papyrifera | Ethiopia, Sudan | The species behind most of the recent lab research on skin ageing |
Wow, I did not know that
Boswellic acids, the compounds behind most of frankincense’s real scientific reputation, are heavy molecules. They are too heavy to survive steam distillation in any meaningful amount, so they mostly stay behind in the resin. In other words: the essential oil in your bottle and the resin extract studied for arthritis and skin ageing are, chemically, closer to two different ingredients wearing the same name.
Why it ended up in skincare at all
Mostly tradition, scent, and a more recent wave of lab curiosity about its antioxidant activity.
Frankincense has a warm, resinous, faintly lemony smell that suits an evening routine. It has long been used as a soothing, “toning” ingredient for maturing skin, in the way lavender is used for calm.
A bit of history
Frankincense was once traded for gold along ancient caravan routes between Arabia and the Mediterranean. The frankincense trees, ports and desert outposts of Oman’s Dhofar region are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, precisely because that trade shaped the ancient world for centuries.
What the research actually says
Here is the honest picture, from strongest to weakest evidence.
- Well established: frankincense oil is a complex mix of aromatic compounds, and its chemistry varies noticeably by species and origin.
- Genuine human data, but not on the oil: a 2010 randomised, double-blind, split-face trial in Dermatologic Therapy tested a cream containing 0.5% boswellic acids on fifteen women for 30 days. The treated side showed improved photoageing scores, lower sebum, and an ultrasound-measured increase in skin thickness. That is real, well-designed human research. It is also boswellic acid extract, not the steam-distilled essential oil sold as “frankincense oil”.
- Early and indirect: a 2023 study in PLOS One found that Boswellia papyrifera essential oil inhibited collagen-degrading and elastin-degrading enzymes in a lab dish, and reduced UVB damage in a rat model. I mention the animal work plainly rather than gloss over it, because I do not support animal testing. Either way, blocking an enzyme in a test tube is a long way from visibly smoother skin.
- Traditional use: skin toning and “rejuvenating” uses have centuries of tradition behind them, which is a different thing from modern clinical proof.
- Not supported: claims that frankincense essential oil erases wrinkles, rebuilds collagen, or treats a diagnosed skin condition.
The honest summary: there is no strong human evidence that the essential oil itself visibly reduces wrinkles. The best human data involves a boswellic acid extract cream, not the oil.
Something worth knowing before you buy
Wild populations of Boswellia papyrifera, one of the main species tapped for frankincense, have collapsed across much of their range. A large demographic study published in Nature Sustainability found that over 75% of surveyed populations had almost no young trees at all, meaning the species is barely reproducing where it is harvested most heavily. Buying from a transparent, responsibly sourced supplier is not just a nice extra. For this ingredient, it is closer to a conservation issue.
Frankincense oil versus “frankincense carrier oil”
You will see “frankincense carrier oil” for sale online. Strictly speaking, it does not exist. A carrier oil is the plain vegetable oil an essential oil gets diluted into. What sellers usually mean is one of these:
| What it is | What is inside it | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| Essential oil | Steam-distilled volatile compounds | Must always be diluted |
| Infused oil | Resin steeped in a carrier oil | Milder, and weaker |
| CO₂ or alcohol extract | Can include heavier compounds such as boswellic acids | A different profile from the essential oil |
| Raw resin | The unprocessed material | Incense, not skincare |
If a listing simply says “frankincense oil” with no further detail, ask the seller which of these it actually is. It changes what you are buying and how it behaves on skin.
How to dilute it for facial use
Never apply frankincense essential oil neat to the face. Essential oils are far more concentrated than the plant itself, and the safe range for facial skin is genuinely small.
Most aromatherapy safety references, including the Tisserand Institute, suggest keeping total essential oil use on the face at around 1% or below. For mature skin, which tends to be thinner and more reactive, I would start at 0.5%.
| Bottle size | 0.5% dilution | 1% dilution |
|---|---|---|
| 10 ml | 1 drop | 2 drops |
| 15 ml | 1 to 2 drops | 3 drops |
| 30 ml | 3 drops | 6 drops |
| 50 ml | 5 drops | 10 drops |
Based on roughly 20 drops per millilitre. Droppers vary, so treat this as a close estimate rather than a precise measurement.
Wow, I did not know that
That 1% limit is not per oil. It is the total of every essential oil in the bottle. Three different oils at 1% each adds up to 3%, not 1%. It is an easy mistake, and one that even established brands have made: aromatherapy safety expert Robert Tisserand has publicly criticised a well-known commercial facial blend for applying several undiluted essential oils, including frankincense, directly to the face. A recognisable bottle does not automatically mean a safe dilution.
How to make a frankincense facial oil
A simple facial oil for mature skin takes about five minutes to put together.
What you need
- A 30 ml dark glass bottle with a dropper or pump
- 15 ml jojoba oil
- 10 ml rosehip oil
- 5 ml plant-derived squalane
- 5 drops frankincense essential oil (roughly 0.8%)
- Optional: a few drops of vitamin E (tocopherol), which helps slow oxidation of the blend
How to make it
- Wash your hands, and make sure the bottle and funnel are completely dry.
- Pour in the jojoba, rosehip and squalane.
- Add the frankincense drops.
- Cap the bottle and roll it gently between your palms to combine.
- Label it with the date you made it.
How to use it
Warm two to three drops between your fingertips and press onto slightly damp skin in the evening. Start every other night for two weeks before moving to nightly use, so you can watch how your skin responds.
Wow, I did not know that
Frankincense is one of the fastest essential oils to oxidise, right alongside citrus oils, because of its high monoterpene content. Tisserand’s own shelf-life guidance puts frankincense at roughly one to two years, several times shorter than an oil like sandalwood, which can remain usable for four to eight years. Rosehip oil in this blend oxidises quickly too, so treat the finished mix as a three to six month product. Keep it away from light and heat, and discard it if it starts to smell sharp, like old crayons or paint.
Frankincense blends for mature skin
Keep the total essential oil content at or below 1%, which is 6 drops in 30 ml. These are sensible starting points.
- Calming evening blend: 3 drops frankincense with 3 drops lavender
- Rich, warm blend: 3 drops frankincense with 2 drops myrrh
- Softly floral blend: 3 drops frankincense with 2 drops geranium
Lavender and geranium both contain compounds that become more allergenic once oxidised, so patch test any new blend even if you already tolerate each oil separately.
Safety and sensitisation
The real risk with essential oils is rarely a dramatic burn. It is sensitisation: a slow-building allergic response that can develop with repeated exposure and, once established, can last a lifetime.
The biggest driver of sensitisation is oxidation. An oil that is old, frequently opened, or stored somewhere warm develops oxidation by-products that are considerably more likely to trigger a reaction than the fresh oil ever was. Research on oxidised fragrance compounds, including some of the same monoterpenes found in frankincense, has repeatedly shown this pattern: the aged version of a compound sensitises where the fresh version rarely does.
How to patch test
- Mix your finished facial oil exactly as you intend to use it.
- Apply a small amount to the inner forearm.
- Leave it uncovered for 24 hours.
- Check for redness, itching, or bumps.
- If anything appears, wash it off and do not use that blend on your face.
A few more points worth knowing:
- Frankincense is not generally considered phototoxic, but daily sunscreen is a sensible habit regardless.
- As a cautious guide, use up an opened bottle within about two years, sooner if the scent turns sharp.
- Keep it tightly capped, in dark glass, away from heat.
Who should avoid it
Skip it, or check with a professional first, if you:
- Have a history of contact allergy to fragrances or essential oils
- Have eczema, rosacea or perioral dermatitis, especially during a flare
- Have broken, sunburnt or otherwise compromised skin
- Are pregnant or breastfeeding, since the evidence here is limited rather than alarming, but a midwife or doctor is the right person to ask
- Use prescription retinoids or strong acids, where adding essential oils can tip your routine into irritation
How to choose a genuinely good frankincense oil
This is where most of the money in this category gets wasted. Look for:
- A full Latin species name on the label, for example Boswellia sacra, not just the word “frankincense”
- The phrase “100% pure essential oil”, not “fragrance oil” or “aroma oil”
- A stated country of origin and a batch number
- Dark glass, ideally with a dropper insert built in
- A GC/MS report, if the seller offers one, showing the oil’s actual chemical profile
Wow, I did not know that
“Therapeutic grade” sounds official on a label, but it is a marketing phrase with no regulated meaning behind it anywhere. It tells you nothing about purity, species, or safety. A batch number and a GC/MS report tell you far more than that phrase ever will.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using it neat “because it is gentle”. It is not, at full strength.
- Adding it to every product in a routine, so the total dilution quietly climbs past a safe level.
- Storing the bottle on a sunny bathroom shelf.
- Expecting visible wrinkle changes within days.
- Buying the cheapest bottle available, which is often blended, adulterated, or the wrong species entirely.
Frequently asked questions
Does frankincense oil reduce wrinkles?
There is no strong human evidence that the essential oil itself does. The most convincing human study used a boswellic acid extract cream, which is a different product from the essential oil sold for skincare.
Can I use frankincense oil on my face every day?
Many people tolerate a properly diluted blend daily, but start every other night and watch how your skin responds before making it a nightly habit.
Is frankincense oil the same as boswellia extract?
No. Boswellic acids are concentrated in the resin and its extracts, and barely survive into the distilled essential oil.
Can I add frankincense oil to my moisturiser?
Yes, at the same dilution of around 0.5 to 1% of the total product. Mix it in thoroughly, and remember to count it toward your total essential oil load for the day.
Why does an old bottle of frankincense oil smell different?
That change in smell is oxidation, and it is also a safety signal. Once an essential oil’s scent shifts toward sharp or “off”, its oxidation by-products have increased along with the risk of a skin reaction. Replace the bottle rather than using it up.
Is frankincense oil safe during pregnancy?
Evidence here is limited rather than alarming, so it is worth checking with a midwife or doctor before using it, or any essential oil, on your skin.
The bottom line
Frankincense oil can be a lovely part of an evening routine for mature skin: fragrant, ritual-friendly, and genuinely interesting to formulate with. It just is not a miracle, and it does not need to be one to earn a place on a shelf.
Dilute it properly, buy a genuine and responsibly sourced bottle, store it well, patch test before you commit to it, and keep your expectations grounded in what the evidence actually shows. That is the whole recipe.
References
- Calzavara-Pinton et al., “Topical Boswellic acids for treatment of photoaged skin,” Dermatologic Therapy (2010)
- “Protective potential of frankincense essential oil… against UVB-induced photodamage,” PLOS One (2023)
- “Antimicrobial and antioxidant properties of Boswellia sacra resin,” Frontiers in Medicine (2025)
- “Frankincense in peril,” Nature Sustainability (2019)
- “Dilution for essential oils,” Tisserand Institute
- “Safety maximums for dermal application,” Tisserand Institute
Love, Patri xx
