ULTIMATE GUIDE to Natural Facial Oils & DIY Facial Serum Recipes

I write so you share. Thank you.

Oils are WONDERFUL for the skin. They naturally create professional, extremely nutritious skincare without the fuss of having to learn cosmetics since there’s no water involved. I love them so much I use them on a daily basis and I have to be careful to not ditch my moisturizer all together since I seem to use facial oils more and more as time goes by.

I started with a few drops in the morning and at night as part of my skincare routine, but lately I’m just pouring the oils on the palm of my hand and applying on face, neck, back of neck, decolletage and back of hands and fingers, and sometimes all the way up my arms. I seem to increase the areas where I add the oils, I’m addicted to the way the smell, the way they feel and the way my skin looks afterwords. I don’t think I could do without oils anymore.

Oils Are VERY EFFECTIVE on The Skin

I have so many entries on carrier oils and their properties! I’ve written about them here, here, here, here, here and here for starters. There’s more and I’ll just keep adding more entries, the world of oils is a neverending box of wonderful surprises to me. There’s so much to learn and not all websites can be trusted. The world of oils is HUGE and there are more and more available oils every as time goes by.

Our skin outer layer is made up of cells, wax and oils (more on the skin here). The oil in the outer layer helps retain moisture within deeper layers of the skin. There are different factors that contribute to this moisture being loss (age, water, soap, weather, etc). The oils are also an ‘occlusive’, protecting our skin from the outside world by not letting water absorb like a sponge.

Eating a healthy diet will help our skin replenish the skin’s natural oils but we can also use oils in our regular skincare.

What Exactly are ‘Facial Oils’?

The oils discussed on this post have been extracted from plants (from the nuts, the seeds, the pulp of the fruits, etc). They all have fantastic properties for the skin, because of both their fatty acids and unsaponifiables (also called the ‘healing fraction’ of the oils). Some of these fatty acids and unsaponifables (the non-fatty acid part of the oil) are a perfect for the skin and can heal many skin issues as well as protect and repair. In fact, many oils have fatty acids that our own skin produces, which makes them an ideal addition to our skincare regime.

The idea is to choose from the oils those that are appropriate for our face according to skin type and skin condition as well as other factors like age.

Facial Oils Benefits

There are MANY benefits that some carrier oils can provide to your skin.

  • Create powerful serums that can change the look of your skin significantly
  • Repair damaged skin: hyperpigmentation, scars, blemishes, acne, etc
  • Add dewy glow to parched skin
  • Help balance skin over time
  • Act as a primer under your favorite moisturizer
  • And many more

Facial Oils Help Super-Charge Your Skincare Routine

Some carrier oils have excellent fatty acid profiles that can really benefit our skin and are particularly good for our face (we’ll be looking at them below).

Moisturizers are great because they contain both lipids (oils) and water so they’re complete, but if we want to benefit from what some of the facial oils have to offer we could use individual oils or a mix of oils (i.e. making our own DIY facial serum) and super-charge our skincare routine. This will be akin to taking your skincare routine to the next level.

Face Oil vs Serum: What is the Difference?

Facial oils are mainly used as a moisturize and can be formulated for skin types (dry, oily, sensitive, combination, normal, etc). They appear as oils and can consist of one oil or a complex mix of oils. Facial serums are formulated for skin types but also address particular conditions or concerns. Serums can also take different forms: gels, oil based, etc.

CREATE YOUR OWN FACIAL OIL BLENDS

Just to not confuse you with all the information (I’m assuming you just want to get started so you can benefit from the oils’ amazing properties) here’s a guide to get you started with facial oils.

  • First you need to take into consideration your skin type (dry, oily, combination, normal, sensitive), skin condition (eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, hyperpigmentation, etc) and age (young or mature skin). The list of oils below will have this information.
  • Decide if you want only one oil or if you prefer to create your own, custom facial oil serum/blend.
  • Make sure you have all the equipment you need (see below)

Choosing Your Oils

The best way to categorize facial oils is by first choosing a high-quality base or foundational oil that will make up the bulk of the blend (like a filler oil) and then we can layer it with other healing and nourishing oils according to their fatty acid profile and skin issues/specific conditions you’d like to target (i.e. anti-aging oils, oils that deal with scarring, oils that are good for hyperpigmentation, oils for acne/acne prone skin, etc, you get the idea).

**Remember you can use just the one oil if you like, but customising your blend and creating your very own DIY facial serum will give you a more sophisticated end product. Again, this is completely up to you.

Creating Your Blend

If you choose the right combination of facial oils you can significantly change your skin condition. Oils are very powerful and their fatty acid profiles will determine which oil is good for what. You can address specific skin issues with the right oils. Lipid oils are a great source of natural properties that will work with your skin and help with the different issues.

Choose one oil as your base or a combination of two or three oils. For example, for mature skin you could make up a base of argan, macadamia and baobab seed oils. Just those 3 on their own are very powerful.

Layer your base oils with the highly nourishing oils according to skin type, age and skin condition. Add just a few drops of each as these are rich oils. You can add one or more, there’s no right or wrong, you’ll have to experiment and see what works for you.

Either way you’re creating high-performance serums as all these oils have incredible properties.

1. Pick the Right Foundational Oils

Foundational or base oils will make the bulk of your DIY facial serum. The list below will give you ideas of which oils to use. I haven’t added all possible oils as the list would be too long and I don’t want to confuse you so I chose a few oils that are superb and will give you an excellent base for your DIY facial serum.

Your base oils should be chosen according to what you’d like to target and/or particular skin conditions. Don’t just ‘pick’ a random oil because you think it sounds good! Check what they’re for and choose accordingly.

The list of oils below all have affiliate links. I only chose products I would purchase myself. I get my carrier oils from Naturally Thinking in the UK because I did my first natural skincare course with them.

I use all of the below oils for different skin conditions with the exception of hazelnut oil which I’m ordering next time from my Naturally Thinking. The rest I know quite well as I use them regularly. The more I use them, the more addicted I get!

Normal/Combination Skin

Dry Skin

Oily Skin

Acne-Prone Skin

Mature Skin

Let’s look at each oil separately:

APRICOT KERNEL OIL (Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive & mature)

High in linoleic acid (30-35%), this is a great oil for oily, combination or sensitive and delicate skin and a lovely addition to facial oil serums. A light moisturizer that absorbs quickly into the skin, its high oleic fatty acid content (60-65%) helps protect the skin from moisture loss, has anti-fungal properties and also has excellent penetration capabilities. Rich in vitamin E, apricot kernel oil is similar to sweet almond oil but more delicate. Also helpful for dry or aged (2% palmitoleic acid) skin.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 65%
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 26%
Palmitoleic acid: 2%
Palmitic acid: 6%
Stearic acid: 2%
Linolenic acid: 1%

My chosen apricot kernel oil:
[amazon box=”B0711M5FS9″ title=”” template=”list”]

ARGAN OIL (Wonderful for all skin types, including sensitive & mature!)

The balance between oleic and linoleic acids makes argan oil suitable for all sin types (normal, combination, oily, dry, sensitive). Rich in polyphenols, vitamin E (3 times more than olive oil, helps the skin repair itself), squalene (giving it rapid absorption) and carotenes, all very powerful antioxidants. It contains 12-15% palmitic saturated fatty acid which helps protect the skin from harsh weather. With excellent moisturizing properties, argan oil can improve skin elasticity as well as offering anti-ageing and anti-inflammatory benefits. It helps wound healing, reduces hyperpigmentation as well as sebum production and helps prevent acne thanks to the phytosterols it contains. As you can see, a wondrous oil.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 46%
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 36%
Palmitic acid: 12%
Stearic acid: 5%
Alpha-linolenic: 0.5 %
Eicosenoic acid: 0.5%

My chosen argan oil:
[amazon box=”B06WWLKQX5″ title=”” template=”list”]

CAMELLIA SEED OIL (Suitable for all normal/combination types, mature and mature sensitive skin)

The tannins in camellia seed oil make it a great oil for oily skin as they tame the sebaceous glands that are the cause of oil production in the skin. With skin healing effects and an excellent emollient, camellia seed oil is extremely high in monounsaturated oleic acid (80%) presenting fantastic conditioning properties. A non-oily, dry oil (it doesn’t leave an oily feel), the mentioned above tannins in the oil make it astringent and helps condition the skin (tighten tissues). With great moisture retaining properties, this oil has vitamins A, B, C and E and squalene, repairing scars, correcting flakiness and soothing irritation, it also provides ultraviolet protection (helping remedy hyperpigmentation), and good also for rejuvenating the skin. A very good choice for chapped or dry skin, it also can help with eczema, burns and psoriasis. Ideal for mature skin, this is a beautiful oil for complexion that has lost its tone, leaving the skin soft and supple. A great addition to any facial oil serum.

Fatty Acid Profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 80–85%
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 9%
Palmitic acid: 7%
Stearic acid: 1%
Arachidic acid: 1%

My chosen camellia seed oil:
[amazon box=”B01KY9LVH2″ title=”” template=”list”]

JOJOBA OIL (Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive & mature!)

Another oils that is suitable for all skin types as it highly resembles our skin sebum, this very-long chain liquid wax ester (it’s not an oil) is high in eicosenoic acid (65-80%) making it very suitable for rosacea-infected skin as it offers relief from the inflammation (also suitable for psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis). This is a balancing emollient oil with anti-inflammatory and wound healing effects. With incredible molecular stability that resists rancidity, it can be used as part of any facial oil serums to help extend the shelf life of other oils (meadowfoam oil is also good for this). With rapid absorption and odorless, jojoba adds elasticity, helps control acne (excess sebum actually dissolves in jojoba), is antibacterial and anti fungal and helps tone and restructure the skin.

Fatty acid profile:
Eicosenoic acid C20:1 – 65%
Erucic acid C22:1 – 16%
Oleic acid C18:1 – 13%
Palmitic acid C16:0 – 3%
Palmitoleic acid – 1%

My chosen jojoba oil:
[amazon box=”B073WVWGTJ” title=”” template=”list”]

HAZELNUT OIL (Excellent for oily, combination or acne prone skin)

A slightly astringent, dry oil (penetrates without leaving an oily feel), hazelnut oil tones, tightens and revives dull skin helping keep its firmness and elasticity. This oil is high in oleic acid, 75-80%, and, with 10-15% linoleic acid, hazelnut oil is best suited for oily, combination or acne prone skin. The tannins in the oil help tame the overproduction of sebum. It contains squalene which nourishes the skin, and beta-Sitosterol (a phytosterol [plant sterol] that has been shown to lower serum cholesterol levels). This oil that can help tighten pores, is high in vitamin E, feels light and it is really nourishing; this is a GREAT base oil for a facial oil serum if you have oily, combination or acne prone skin.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 75%
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 10%
Palmitic acid: 5%
Stearic acid: 3%

My chosen hazelnut oil:
[amazon box=”B00NJ23L4I” title=”” template=”list”]

RICE BRAN OIL (Suitable for combination, oily & mature sensitive skin)

A medium weight oil, rice bran oil contains about 1 to 2% y-oryzanol, a phytosterol (essential cell membrane components) unique to this oil (y-oryzanol has been shown to be a more effective anti-oxidant than vitamin E, which is why this oil can have a long shelf life). A balanced oil with high amounts of linoleic acid (36%) and oleic acid (42%), packed with antioxidants. This oil is very special because the unsaponifiables (vitamin B, vitamin E and squalene) make up to 4% of the oil. Moisturizes and softens the skin and helps recondition skin from weather damage (sun burned or wind chapped skin) as well as helping reduce inflammation and itching. Also, this is a very cost effective oil.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic Acid (Omega-9): 42%
Linoleic Acid (Omega-6 EFA): 36%
Palmitic acid: 15%
Stearic acid: 2%
Linolenic acid: 1.5%

My chosen rice bran oil:
[amazon box=”B00Y5DSOME” title=”” template=”list”]

AVOCADO OIL (Good for dry sensitive skin and mature skin)

A wonderfully thick and rich and very penetrating oil for very dry, chapped skin, stretch marks and scar tissue. Obtained from the fresh of the fruit, this oil is rich in chlorophyll (with beta-carotene, a carotenoid found in chlorophyll with potent antioxidant protection which offer natural protection against the UV rays of the sun) with a long shelf life of 12 to 18 months. Great emollient properties which make it idea for dry, mature skin (with a generous 12% of the rare palmitoleic fatty acid, fantastic for mature skin). High in oleic acid (65-70% and also a nice amount of essential unsaturated linoleic acid (20%). It hosts an impressive percentage of unsaponifiable healing compounds which include vitamin A,B, D and E, aminoacids and a small amount of the phospholipid lecithin. Rich in phytosterols which reduce inflammation, help support the skin structures and collagen, prevent cell weakening and age spots and regenerates tissues. A truly wonderful oil.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic Acid (Omega-9): 70% 
Palmitic acid: 16% 
Linoleic Acid (Omega-6 EFA): 12% 
Palmitoleic acid: 10% 
Alpha-linolenic: 4% 
Stearic acid: 2% 

My chosen avocado oil:

[amazon box=”B002EB30Q4″ title=”” template=”list”]

BAOBAB SEED OIL (Suitable for all skin types, particularly combination and mature skin)

Mid and neutral, baobab seed oil is a wonderfully balanced oil with 35% oleic acid and 28% linoleic acid which help nourish our skin tissues.  It is a great oil for repair/cellular regeneration because of its botanical compounds (provitamin A, Vitamin E, minerals), which also help support skin tissue elasticity and collagen. A great oil for a vibrant skin tone, it minimizes the appearance of fine lines. This oil is really high in saturated palmitic fatty acid (24%!) which helps protect against environmental damage. Baobab oil absorbs quickly and penetrates deeply into our skin.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic Acid (Omega-9): 35% 
Linoleic Acid (Omega-6 EFA): 28% 
Palmitic acid: 24% 
Stearic acid: 6% 
Alpha-linolenic: 3%

My chosen babobab seed oil:

[amazon box=”B01LWAC8JC” title=”” template=”list”]

MARULA OIL (Great for mature, dry and dry sensitive skin)

A truly elegant and luxurious oil (price point is usually higher than other oils) this is a fantastic lipid for sensitive skin, although it is also suitable for mature, dry or dehydrated skin. Helps skin retain moisture and with protective properties (palmitic acid at 11% and stearic acid at 7%, both protective saturated acids in quite high percentages!). Its phospholipids help support skin cells while the palmitic acid gives it great emollience. Dominant in oleic acid it can calm inflammation. With high content of polyphenols and antioxidants (with procyanidin, catechins and flavanoids – this oil actually has 60% more antioxidants than argan oil) marula oil helps restore a radiant tone. It has a long shelf life, and even though it is a rich oil the absorption is really fast, probably due to its small molecular weight. Again, a luxurious oil in its own right.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 74%
Palmitic acid: 11%
Stearic acid: 7%
Linoleic acid: 6%
Myristic acid: 2%
Linolenic acid: 1%

My chosen marula oil:

[amazon box=”B01MG27MRA” title=”” template=”list”]

PEACH KERNEL OIL (Suitable for dry, mature and dry sensitive skin)

This oil is similar to apricot kernel oil. This oil is suitable for large, open pores. Recommended for mature, dry and/or sensitive skin. With a shelf life of 1 to 2 years, it contains vitamin A, vitamin E and minerals. It is a fairly balanced oil between oleic and linoleic acid.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 55-67%
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 25–35%
Palmitic acid: 5–8%
Stearic acid: 3%
Alpha-linolenic acid: 1%
Palmitoleic acid: 1%

My chosen peach kernel oil:

[amazon box=”B00Y1DDA4U” title=”” template=”list”]

SWEET ALMOND OIL (Perfect for dry and dry sensitive skin, suitable for mature skin and good for all skin types in general)

Rich in vitamin E, phytosterols (mainly beta-Sitosterol), squalane, magnesium, potassium, calcium and zinc, sweet almond oil is incredibly suitable for dry skin and also a lovely oil for mature skin. An all purpose carrier oil, sweet almond oil calms and rejuvenates the skin, it is a fantastic emollient for dry skin. It calms redness and supports collagen production. Because of its high amount of linoleic acid it can absorb into the skin relatively easily. It is a nourishing oil that can be used on the young ones because of its mildness.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 60–75% 
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 20–30% 
Palmitic acid: 3–9% 
Stearic acid: 0.5–3% 
Alpha-linolenic acid: 0.4% 

My chosen sweet almond oil:

[amazon box=”B00K4PLC30″ title=”” template=”list”]

GRAPESEED OIL (Great for oily and combination skin but good for all skin types)

Grapeseed oil is one of the lightest oils, very rich in linoleic acid which absorbs really quickly and deeply into the layers, making it a great moisturizer. Linoleic acid is also good for healing wounds and well known for being suitable for oily and combination skin because it is an astringent that tightens and tones skin tissues. Really high in vitamin E, grapeseed oil contains chlorophyll and is rich in minerals. The flavonol proanthocyanidin helps maintain skin elasticity as well as strengthen and support collagen. It contains campesterol (10%), stigmasterol (10%) and B-sitosterol (74%), which will all help reduce inflammation and repairing skin barrier. Again, a very light oil that absorbs and penetrates the skin really easily, grapeseed oil is what it’s called a ‘dry oil’ (meaning it doesn’t leave a greasy feel, thanks to the tannins and catechins) and will make a fantastic base for any serum aimed at oily and combination skin!

Fatty acid profile:
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 69–78%
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 15–25 %
Palmitic acid: 6–9%
Stearic acid: 2.4–6%
Alpha-linolenic acid: 0.3–1%
Palmitoleic acid: 0.5–0.7% C16:1

My chosen grapeseed oil:

[amazon box=”B06XCCVDH7″ title=”” template=”list”]

MACADAMIA NUT OIL (Great for mature skin)

Look at the amount of palmitoleic acid on this oil (16-23%)! This is a wonderful oil for mature skin that also has a nice amount of monounsaturated oleic acid (around 20%) which softens skin, moisturizes, is anti-inflammatory and has antiviral and antifungal properties making it also a great oil for dry skin. With squalene that helps regenerate skin cells and helps against weather conditions and phytosterols that can help reduce itchiness, irritation and redness of the skin. Macadamia nut oil is a light to medium weight oil that absorbs well into the skin and has a non-greasy feeling. I make sure to add it to most of my antiaging skincare! I love this oil.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid (Omega-9): 54–63%
Palmitoleic acid: 16–23% C16:1
Palmitic acid: 7–10%
Stearic acid: 2–6%
Arachidic acid: 1½–3% C20:0
Linoleic acid: 1–3%
Eicosenoic acid: 1–3% C20:1

My chosen macadamia nut oil:

[amazon box=”B00Q8SF3R8″ title=”” template=”list”]

2. TOP UP with Highly-Nourishing Oils

High-nourishing oils are those with a fatty acid profile that will somehow help with skin conditions or issues like inflammed skin, psoriasis, dermatitis, eczema, over-sebaceous glands, hyperpigmentation, etc. The oils below are extremely powerful and can truly make a difference to your skin when used over time. Adding the below oils to your foundational oils will take your serums to the next level, not only because you’re fine-tuning serum customization according to skin condition but also because these are high-end products that nature has provide us with. When using carrier oils, take into account you’re using the plant’s very own signature, so to speak. Don’t take it for granted, I think of these oils as liquid gold, I kid you not.

You can choose high-nourishing oils from the list below. Again, I’ve used all of them and needless to say I absolutely ADORE them, each in their own powerful right.

Normal/Combination Skin

Dry Skin

Oily Skin

Oily skin usually has larger pores and might be acne prone as well. The skin needs to rebalance itself and although you might think adding oils to oily skin can be counterproductive this is not so if you choose the right oils. The idea is to help the skin mitigate the overproduction of sebum by providing it with oils that are high in linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid. These wonderful oils are great for combating inflammed skin and can help the skin rebalance itself.

Acne-Prone Skin

Mature Skin

Let’s look at each oil separately:

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL (Great for all skin types except people prone to clogged pores)

A fantastic oil for eczema, psoriasis, dermatitis, inflammed skin, dryness, redness, itchiness, chapped skin, etc due to its high amount of gamma-linolenic acid (9 -12%). As a natural astringent it will tighten pores. It is also high in linoleic acid meaning it’ll be great at restoring skin’s barrier function, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and also helps with dry, itchy skin. High amount of both these acids makes it a super-power oil when it comes to problem skin! Evening primrose oil though is not really suitable for those who tend to get clogged pores because of its comedogenic rating (3 out of 4). I make a blend with evening primrose, hemp seed, borage and black seed oil for problem skin (eczema, etc) and I totally LOVE it.

Fatty acid profile:
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 68-76%
Gamma-linolenic acid – (GLA, Omega-6 EFA): 9-12%
Oleic acid: 5-10%
Palmitic acid: 5-7%
Stearic acid: 1-3%

My chosen evening primrose oil:
[amazon box=”B00CL3YHZS” title=”” template=”list”]

HEMP SEED OIL (Great for all skin types, particularly problem skin)

Made up of a wonderful range of fatty acids hence gaining great reputation, it is referred to as “nature’s most perfectly balanced oil” due to its ideal 3:1 ratio of omega 6 to omega 3 fatty acids. High in linoleic acid (restores skin’s barrier functions, reduces transepidermal water loss, helps with dry, itchy skin, reduces scaling), with some alpha-linolenic acid (helping regulate inflammation and capable of treating psoriasis and rosacea) and around 2% stearidonic acid (effective against skin conditions like atopic dermatitis), it is easy to see why hemp seed oil makes an EXCELLENT facial oil for problem skin. An oil that absorbs really well (considered a dry oil like hazelnut or camellia), repairs and protects the skin. A wonderful addition to any facial serum.

Fatty acid profile:
Linoleic acid: 53–60%
Alpha-Linolenic acid: 15–25%
Oleic acid: 8.5–16%
Palmitic acid: 6–9%
Stearic acid: 2–3.5%
Stearidonic acid: 0.4–2%
Gamma-linolenic acid: 1–4%

My chosen hemp seed oil:
[amazon box=”B00Q8RK3DS” title=”” template=”list”]

ROSEHIP SEED OIL (A fantastic oil for normal, dry and mature skin)

A great oil for aging skin and for all skin types in general although it can be a little too rich for young or acne prone skin. A great oil for scars and stretch marks, it can also be used for hyperpigmentation and age spots (thanks to the beta-carotene). Ideal for aging skin, it can improve skin texture and help boost cell regeneration. Rosehip seed oil has an interesting fatty acid profile: 44% Omega-6 linoleic acid that helps speed up skin’s barrier function, reduce scaling and inflammation and TEWL, 33% Omega-3 linolenic acid help regulate inflammation, and around 15% oleic acid which helps moisturize and soften the skin. With trans retinoic acid also called tretinoin, a delicate molecule and a close relative of vitamin A which at lower levels has been shown to have anti-aging effects (if you’re interested in this read Colin’s entry on rosehip oil. Note that cold press rosehip seed oil gives you seven times more tretinoin in the final oil according to Colin so watch out.)

With great anti-oxidants and free radical scavengers, the ability to soften and moisturize the skin due to its oleic acid, ability to repair skin barrier as well as having anti-inflammatory properties thanks to its linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids, the ability to reduce scars, fine lines and hyperpigmentation of scars as well as being able to and make the skin even, rosehip oil is simply an astonishing oil. Remember: not really a good choice when it comes to those with acne-prone skin.

Fatty acid profile:
Linoleic acid: 44% 
Alpha-linolenic: 33% 
Oleic acid: 15% 
Palmitic acid: 4% 
Stearic acid: 2% 
Arachidic acid: 1% 
Myristic acid: 0.5% 

My chosen rosehip seed oil:
[amazon box=”B01N3340K7″ title=”” template=”list”]

BORAGE SEED OIL (Great for dry/oily/mature skin but particularly beneficial for irritated/inflamed skin. NOT FOR SENSITIVE SKIN. NOT IF YOU’RE PREGNANT.)

Borage seed oil has one of the highest sources of Omega-6 gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), more, in fact, that any other oil known. At around 20% oleic acid borage seed oil softens our skin, moisturizing it and also regenerating skin cells. The linoleic acid acts as an anti-inflammatory helping sooth dry skin as well as itchiness. The GLA (gamma-linolenic acid) in the oil helps increase barrier function faster than linoleic acid!, acts to reduce inflammation as well as abnormal cell growth and the stearic acid helps with flexibility of the skin and moisture retention. Borage seed oil can help reduce redness, the ferulic acid (a polyphenol) is an great anti-oxidant, even more powerful than vitamin E. It can reduce age spots and prevent aging of the skin, reducing itching and inflammation and help with conditions like psoriasis. Borage oil is perfectly suited for irritated (non-sensitive), inflammed skin also alleviating redness. This is a great skin-repairing oil!

Borage has not been shown to help when it comes to eczema (although evening primrose oil has). If you have sensitive use evening primrose oil instead of borage.

Fatty acid profile:
Linoleic acid (Omega-6 EFA): 35.0-39.0%
Gamma-linolenic acid – GLA (Omega-6): 20.0% Minimum
Oleic acid: 15.0-20.0%
Palmitic acid: 9.0-12.0%
Eicosenoic acid: 3.9-4.3%
Stearic acid: 3.0-5.5%
Docosenoic acid: 2.4-2.7%
Tetracosenoic acid: 1.4-1.7%

My chosen borage seed oil:
[amazon box=”B01IB3P570″ title=”” template=”list”]

BLACK SEED (NIGELLA) OIL (Suitable for oily, acne-prone, dry, irritated skin, psoriasis, eczema, fungus, yeast, mold. A great skin-disinfectant.)

Very good at killing multiple strains of acne-causing bacteria and an excellent oil for skin eruptions, the thymoquinone in black seed oil also helps eliminate pimple inflammation of the skin (it is a strong anti-inflammatory in its own right). The oils helps when it comes to wound healing besides being anti-inflammatory it is also anti-fungal, anti-bacterial and anti-microbial. Suitable for dry skin, eczema, psoriasis, flare-ups, blemishes, etc, which can all be calmed and helped. If you have skin issues such as yeast, mold and fungal infections, this would be the oil to use.

Fatty acid profile:
Linoleic acid (Omega 6): 53.08%
Oleic acid (Omega 9): 21.7%
Palmitic acid: 11.31%
Palmitoleic acid: 2.3%
Stearic acid: 3.02%
Eicosadienoic acid: 2.28% 

My chosen black seed (nigella) oil:
[amazon box=”B076ZXJZ6G” title=”” template=”list”]

TAMANU OIL (Suitable for all skin types, particularly good for acne, cold sores, eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, scars)

Tamanu oil repairs and regenerates skin.With anti-bacterial properties, its fatty acid profile includes its very own fatty acid: calophyllic acid (see here and here), strongly anti-inflamatory and with healing powers not short of prodigious. Tamanu oil also contains glycolipids (repair and regenerate the skin) and phospholipids. This oil absorbs deeply into the layers of the skin, helping regenerate new skin quite rapidly. It also diminishes scarring and repairs nerves. It may also help with hyperpigmentation. When rubbed into the skin it feels smooth, and even a small amount of the oil in your serum will add healing properties to your formulas. Its antibacterial activity can improve skin infections such Staphylococcus aureus strain, which causes psoriasis. This oil is probably either underrated or not as popular as other oils, but it well deserves a mention when discussing high-end oils with transormative powers that stand out for their wonderfully healing properties.

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid: 49% 
Linoleic acid: 21% 
Palmitic acid: 15% 
Stearic acid: 12% 
Myristic acid: 3% 
Alpha-linolenic: 1% 
Eicosenoic acid: 1% 
Caulophyllic acid unique to this oil, % unknown

My chosen tamanu oil:
[amazon box=”B00L2NG7NS” title=”” template=”list”]

BURITI OIL (Great for sun damaged, scarred, mature skin and dry skin prone to acne)

Buriti oil is the richest known source of beta-carotene! In fact, it contains more beta-carotene than carrot seed oil. It is considered to be a great oil for sun damaged skin with an SPF- 8, can be used on burnt skin. It prevents and repairs damage cause from excessive sun exposure, antioxidants and the pro-vitamin A carotenes behave in a protective way by neutralizing the free radical damage that can be caused by excess sun rays. Also suitable for dry skin that is prone to acne. The vitamin E helps prevent oxidative damage. This oil helps maintain skin elasticity, restores moisture in the cells, reduces uneven pigmentation, helps wounds, prevents excessive scarring. The oleic acid helps rejuvenate the skin. This is a great oil to use if you need to repair some scarring or sun damaged skin.

Use in small percentages in your serums as this oil is very red. It will not stain your skin but it can stain your clothes (you can wash it off). This oil will give your serum formulas a lovely color!

Fatty acid profile:
Oleic acid: 79.2%
Palmitic acid: 16.3%
Linoleic acid: 1.4%
Alpha-linolenic acid: 1.3%
Stearic acid: 1.3%
Palmitoleic acid: 0.4%    

My chosen buriti oil:
[amazon box=”B01L2S7ZQA” title=”” template=”list”]

POMEGRANATE SEED OIL (Great for mature skin)

Coming soon.

Fatty acid profile:
Punicic acid: 78% 
Linoleic acid: 7% 
Oleic acid: 6% 
Palmitic acid: 2% 
Stearic acid: 1%

My chosen pomegranate seed oil:
[amazon box=”B00VHKDV94″ title=”” template=”list”]

SEA BUCKTHORN BERRY (FRUIT) OIL (Excellent for mature skin)

Coming soon.

Fatty acid profile:
Palmitoleic acid: 34%
Palmitic acid: 30.4%
Elaidic acid: 14.6%
Oleic acid: 7.1%
Linoleic acid: 5.8%
Alpha-Linolenic acid 2.1%
Myristic acid: 1.5%

My chosen sea buckthorn berry (fruit) oil:
[amazon box=”B004BKLHFW” title=”” template=”list”]

3. Preserve Your Blend with Oils & Vitamin E

MEADOWFOAM & JOJOBA OILS

There are 2 wonderful oils that can help preserve your formula: jojoba oil and meadowfoam oil. They both mimic the skin’s own sebum and because they are made up of long chain fatty acids it means that they’ll take longer than most other oils to go rancid helping preserve against oxidation. You can use them in your formulas to extend the life of your other oils!

VITAMIN E

Adding vitamin E to your formulas will also help extend their shelf life. I usually add around 0.5% of the total amount.

4. Equipment You Need

MEASURING SPOONS

  • Stainless steel measuring spoons (aff link)

PIPPETTES

Pippetes are helpful for measuring drops

BEAKERS

Prepare your blend in a glass beaker.

FUNNEL

A small funnel will help you pour your mix onto your glass dropper bottle.

SCALES

A scale can help you measure these tiny amounts.

  • Scales (aff link) [I’ve got two of these)

DROPPER BOTTLES

2oz dropper bottles are ideal and can last you for months. In fact, just 1oz can last you for a long time so don’t worry about filling up the bottles.

70% ALCOHOL

You’ll need to wash your droppers on soapy water and spray with 70% alcohol to disinfect them. After washing just spray, place upside down on clean kitchen towel and let dry naturally (I do this the night before so they’re nice and dry the day after).

  • 70% alcohol WITHOUT spray bottle (aff link)
  • 70% alcohol WITH spray bottle (aff link)

LABELS

Make sure to label your bottles, I find I never remember what’s in the bottle over time so I ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS label them!

  • Sticker labels, black charcoal (aff link)
  • Sticker labels, natural brown kraft (aff link)

KEEPING NOTES

Keep notes while making your serum, write down what works and what doesn’t work.

Using & Applying Facial Oils

This is very simple! Apply a few drops in the morning and/or at night before your moisturizer or instead of your moisturizer (I do both, depending on how I feel on that day). I find that adding the moisturizer afterwords will help the oils get absorbed easier. But sometimes I love the way my skin feels with the oils so I don’t use the moisturizer.

Up to you, just test, test, test and see how it feels for you. There are no rules. Just make sure you cleanse your skin well before adding the oils (cleanse and tone). That’s all.

DIY Facial Serum Blends You Could Start With

If you prefer to just copy a formula, have a look at the ones I’ve written below. I’ve made many formulas for different people and I like experimenting but I can already tell you I ALWAYS add a bit of meadowfoam seed oil to help preserve the formula, 0.5% vitamin E for the same reason and I almost always add a few drops of pomegranate or sea buckthorn seed oil to pump up the vitamin E content of the serum and instantly create a high-end product.

Facial Serum for All Skin Types

  • 2 parts jojoba oil
  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1 part baobab oil
  • 1/2 part rosehip oil
  • 1/4 part tamanu oil
  • 1/4 part sea buckthorn oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Normal/Combination Skin

  • 1 part camellia seed oil
  • 1 part apricot kernel oil
  • 1/2 part hemp seed oil – soothes and rebalances skin oils.
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 1/2 part jojoba oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Normal/Combination, Mature Skin

  • 1 part jojoba oil
  • 1 part camellia seed oil
  • 1 part grapeseed oil
  • 1 part baobab seed oil
  • 1/2 part rosehip oil
  • 1/2 part tamanu seed oil
  • 1/4 part pomegranate seed oil
  • 1/4 part sea buckthorn oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Mature Skin 1

  • 2 parts argan oil
  • 1 part avocado seed oil – high in palmitoleic acid, omega 7, our body produces less of it as we grow older.
  • 1 part pomegranate seed oil – combats thinning of the skin.
  • 1/2 part rosehip seed oil – mitigates scars and sun damage.
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 1/2 part jojoba oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 1/4 part buriti oil – great skin healer.
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Mature Skin 2

  • 1 part jojoba oil
  • 1/2 part rosehip seed oil
  • 1/2 part evening primrose oil
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 1/4 part pomegranate seed oil
  • 1/4 part sea buckthorn oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Mature Skin 3

  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1 part rosehip oil
  • 1 part macadamia oil
  • 1/2 part marula oil
  • 1/2 part baobab seed oil
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 1/4 part buriti oil
  • 1/4 part pomegranate seed oil
  • 1/4 part sea buckthorn oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Mature, Sensitive Skin

  • 1 part apricot kernel oil
  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1 part camellia oil
  • 1 part jojoba oil
  • 1 part rice bran oil
  • 1/2 part evening primrose oil
  • 1/2 part hemp seed oil
  • 1/2 part rosehip seed oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

VERY SIMPLE Facial Serum for Mature Skin

  • 2 parts sweet almond oil
  • 1 part rosehip seed oil – mitigates scars and sun damage.
  • 1 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)

Facial Serum for Oily Skin

  • 1.5 parts camellia oil – astringent
  • 1.5 parts grapeseed oil – slightly astringent, minimizes pores and tones the skin
  • 1/2 part rosehip oil – mitigates scars and sun damage
  • 1/2 part tamanu oil – clears up old scar tissue
  • 1/2 part hemp seed oil – soothes and rebalances skin oils
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil – long fatty acid chain, it will extend the shelf life of other oils
  • 1/2 part jojoba oil – supplement skin’s natural fatty acids and extends shelf life of other oils
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Dry Skin

  • 1.5 parts argan oil
  • 1.5 part avocado seed oil – high in palmitoleic acid, omega 7, our body produces less of it as we grow older.
  • 1 part pomegranate seed oil – combats thinning of the skin.
  • 1/2 part rosehip seed oil – mitigates scars and sun damage.
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Very Dry Skin

  • 2 parts avocado seed oil – high in palmitoleic acid, omega 7, our body produces less of it as we grow older.
  • 1 part sweet almond oil
  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1 part pomegranate seed oil – combats thinning of the skin.
  • 1/2 part rosehip seed oil – mitigates scars and sun damage.
  • 1/2 part jojoba oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Sensitive Skin

  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1 part camellia seed oil
  • 1 part marula oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Acne Prone Skin

  • 1 part grapeseed oil – slightly astringent, minimizes pores and tones the skin.
  • 1 part borage seed oil
  • 1 part evening primrose oil – gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) rich, calms inflammation.
  • 1 part black (nigella) seed oil – linoleic acid (LA) rich, repairs damage from blemishes.
  • 1/2 part hemp seed oil – soothes and rebalances skin oils.
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 1/2 part jojoba oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Sensitive, Acne Prone Skin

  • 2 parts jojoba oil
  • 1 part grapeseed oil
  • 1 part camellia seed oil
  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1/2 part baobab seed oil
  • 1/4 part black seed oil
  • 1/4 part tamanu oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Facial Serum for Oily, Acne-Prone, Sensitive, Mature Skin

  • 2 parts jojoba oil
  • 2 parts grapeseed oil
  • 1 part camellia seed oil
  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1/2 part baobab seed oil
  • 1/4 part black seed oil
  • 1/4 part tamanu oil
  • 1/4 part pomegranate seed oil
  • 1/4 part sea buckthorn oil
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Antioxidant Facial Serum

  • 1 part argan oil
  • 1 part apricot kernel oil
  • 1/2 part pomegranate oil – packed with vitamin E.
  • 1/4 part sea buckthorn oil
  • 1/2 part meadowfoam seed oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

Anti-Inflammatory Facial Serum

  • 1 part evening primrose oil
  • 1 part borage seed oil
  • 1/2 part hemp seed oil
  • 1/4 part jojoba oil (to extend shelf life)
  • 0.5% vitamin E of the total amount (weight your blend and and calculate 5% to the total, then add this amount of Vitamin E to your blend)

So Many Blends You Can Create!

Sometimes I think: so many blends, so little skin! I don’t have enough skin to use all the blends I’d love to make. The image featuring on this post is just an example of some of the blends (or isolated oils) I’ve created/used, but I’ve done lots of blends for my friends and family and I can’t get enough of them.

Facial oils are addictive and you’ll find going from two drops to handfuls of the stuff. Seriously.

Helpful Resources

– About Our Skin
– Gothamista on Face Oils
– 70 Non-Comedogenic Oils
– On Pomegranate Seed Oil
– On Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil

Related posts:

  1. About Our Skin
  2. The A to Z of Essential Oils for Acne Prone Skin
  3. Crash Course on AHAs, BHAs, Salicylic Acid, Vitamin C, Etc

Patri Hernandez, CHC, Certified Health Coach & Certified Organic Skincare Alchemist
One day, during my menopausal rollercoaster, I had a spiritual awakening that connected me so deeply with nature, I thought I might sprout leaves. Suddenly, natural ingredients became my obsession—like an addiction, really. My body was magnetically drawn to them, and it wasn’t long before I found myself knee-deep in essential oils, herbs, and all things organic.

From there, it was a slippery slope (a delightfully scented one) into organic skincare formulation. The intoxicating aroma of essential oils, the thrill of crafting something pure with my own hands—I was hooked. It wasn’t enough to just use these natural wonders; I had to create them, surround myself with them. Now, I live on a piece of land where I grow my own organic fruits and vegetables (when the weather isn’t playing tricks on me), and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

When people ask what I do, I like to think about the view from my window—the endless sea—and say, “I live the life dreamers dream of.” It's All about the richness of living in harmony with nature. Watching others turn to natural ingredients because of something I shared with them—that’s my proudest achievement.

Oh, and just to keep things interesting, I’m also a bit of a nerd. I love computers, software, and all the techy stuff that seems like it wouldn’t fit with my earth-loving, oil-sniffing lifestyle. But hey, who says you can’t have the best of both worlds?

My ultimate goal? To help people kick the commercial product habit and embrace the natural, the organic, the truly nourishing. Life’s too short to settle for anything less.

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